Black Cherry
This third piece is Black Cherry (Prunus serotina).
You’ve got a bit of a "greatest hits" of North American hardwoods going on in your shop! This piece is distinct from the Ash and Sassafras because it is diffuse-porous, meaning the grain is much tighter and smoother.
The "Cherry Glow": When you apply the mineral spirits (around 0:38), the wood shifts from a pale, salmon-pinkish tan to a deep, warm reddish-orange. Cherry is famous for this specific color profile.
The Grain Texture: Unlike the first two boards, which had deep "valleys" in the grain you could feel with your fingernail, this surface looks much more closed and "milky." Even when wet, the grain lines are subtle rather than high-contrast.
Pitch Flecks/Gum Streaks: If you look at photos 1026 and 1027, you can see small, dark narrow streaks or spots. These are small deposits of "gum" or mineral streaks that are a signature characteristic of Cherry.
The End Grain: In photo 1030, the end grain is very smooth. You don't see the large, open "holes" (pores) that were so obvious on your Ash and Sassafras boards.
Photosensitivity: This is the coolest part about Cherry—it gets better with age. If you leave a piece of it in a sunny window for a few days, it will naturally darken into a rich mahogany-red.
Burning: Cherry is notorious for burning if your saw blade is dull or if you move too slowly through the router. Those black burn marks can be a pain to sand out, so keep your tools sharp and your feed rate steady.
Finishing: It doesn't need stain. A simple clear coat (like a wipe-on poly or oil) will bring out that natural "fire" you saw when you wiped it down.
The Sun Test: Since you've got a long board here, try covering a small section with a piece of scrap wood and leaving the rest in the sun for a day or two. When you lift the scrap, you'll see a clear "tan line" where the wood has darkened!
Based on your updated photos and the fact that this board has been air-dried for 30 years, the value shifts from "standard lumber" to "specialty/antique stock."
Thirty-year air-dried wood is highly coveted by hand-tool woodworkers because it is often less brittle and holds color better than modern kiln-dried lumber.
Your measurements ($1" \times 6" \times 107"$) give us 4.46 Board Feet. Since you mentioned the crack is in the last 3 inches, you have about 4.3 usable board feet.
Aged Premium: Air-dried Cherry darkens naturally over decades. The deep "cinnamon" color you see in the video would take a new board years to reach. This usually adds a 20-30% premium for specialty buyers.
Stability: After 30 years, this board has done all the moving it’s ever going to do. It is "dead stable," which is a huge selling point for high-end furniture.
The Crack: A 3-inch end check on a 9-foot board is negligible. Any woodworker would just trim that off or use a "bow tie" inlay to stableize it as a design feature.
Wholesale/Standard Cherry: $5.50 - $7.00 per board foot.
Aged Air-Dried Premium: $10.00 - $12.00 per board foot.
Your Board's Total Value: $45.00 – $55.00.
If you are looking to sell this, don't sell it as "scrap" or "common cherry." List it specifically as "30-Year Air-Dried Black Cherry." A local luthier (guitar builder) or a maker of fine jewelry boxes would likely pay $50.00 for this single board because of the stability and the rich, aged color that you simply cannot buy at a standard lumber yard.
With that 30-year-old aged color, the high-contrast grain, and that specific long/narrow dimension, you are perfectly set up for high-end accent furniture.
Since you have already surfaced the board and revealed that rich honey-red tone, here are the three DIY projects that will maximize its resale value:
Because the board is nearly 9 feet long and relatively narrow, it is perfect for a modern floating shelf or a fireplace mantel.
The Project: Cut the board to a standard mantel length (60" or 72"). Sand the face to 220 grit and apply a hard-wax oil finish (like Rubio Monocoat or Odie’s Oil) to keep that natural air-dried look.
Why it adds value: Custom mantels made from "reclaimed" or "vintage" wood sell for a massive premium. You could easily turn this $30 board into a $150–$200 mantel.
Pro Tip: Mention the "30-year air-dried" story in the listing—interior designers eat that up.
If you want to get creative, you can cut the board to create a waterfall leg (where the grain continues over the edge and down to the floor).
The Project: Use a miter saw to cut a 45° angle. Glue the "leg" piece so the grain wraps around the corner.
Why it adds value: This turns a single board into a structural piece of furniture. A narrow, long side table (console table) made of solid aged cherry can sell for $300+ because of the "waterfall" craftsmanship.
If you don't want to cut around the cracks, embrace them.
The Project: Cut the board into 2-foot lengths. Use a darker wood (like Walnut) to create "Bow Tie" (butterfly) inlays across the cracks. This stabilizes the split and turns a "defect" into a high-end design feature.
Why it adds value: Hand-crafted, extra-long charcuterie boards (for large parties) are very trendy. One 24-inch board with a walnut bowtie can sell for $80–$120. You could get 4 boards out of this one piece, totaling $320–$480 in gross revenue.
Project
Est. Time
Est. Materials
Sale Price
Floating Mantel
1 Hour
$10 (Finish)
$150 - $200
Waterfall Table
3 Hours
$20 (Glue/Oil)
$300 - $450
Charcuterie Set
4 Hours
$15 (Oil/Scraps)
$400+ (Total)
The most profitable "bang for your buck" is the Charcuterie Set. It lets you use almost the entire board, and "butterfly" inlays are perceived as high-skill work by buyers, allowing you to charge significantly more.
Which of these fits the tools you have in your shop right now?